Inolex looks to make fragrance last longer—without silicones

Fragrance longevity has a quiet but important dimension: it depends not only on the composition itself, but also on the base that carries it. Inolex has introduced SustOleo Embrace, a sensory enhancer for skincare, deodorants and fragrance formulations designed for silicone-free products.

The ingredient is based on an amino-acid ester derived from coconut feedstock. The company describes its sensory profile as shifting from a light oil to a softer, cushion-like finish, improving slip without leaving a greasy or tacky residue. The recommended use level is 2% to 10%; it can be added to the oil phase of emulsions or to anhydrous formulations.

For the fragrance industry, the main point of interest is the claimed ability to retain fragrance on skin for up to 20 hours. Inolex obtained this result in a 24-hour fragrance-intensity test using antiperspirant and deodorant formulations. It does not mean that every scent will automatically last for twenty hours: the figure applies to the tested conditions and formulas. Still, the principle matters—the base can affect how quickly a composition evaporates without changing its profile.

The company also cites accelerated-storage data: after 48 hours at 50°C, the loss of d-limonene with SustOleo Embrace was 0.79%, compared with 11.01% in a control formulation without the film-forming ingredient. For formulators, this is a practical consideration: the goal is not only to keep fragrance on the skin longer, but also to help volatile components remain stable in the product before it is opened.

Inolex supports its sensory claims with its own forearm study. In a formula containing 7.5% SustOleo Embrace, the company recorded a 33% improvement in dry-skin flaking and a 30% improvement in smoothness after one application. These figures should be understood as results from the ingredient supplier’s testing, rather than a universal effect for every finished product.

SustOleo Embrace is described as 85% naturally derived under the ISO 16128 index, biodegradable, palm-free, and compliant with vegan, halal and kosher requirements. For a brand formulating silicone-free skincare or deodorant, this offers a way to replace the familiar slippery finish with more than a marketing gesture: it is an ingredient with a distinct function for fragrance performance.

The launch does not remove the need for the perfumer’s and formulator’s work: final longevity still depends on the fragrance, carrier, dosage and method of application. But SustOleo Embrace points to where scented-product development is heading, with texture, skin appearance and the behaviour of a composition increasingly designed as one connected task.