First Returns to Japan in Two Versions, Bringing Van Cleef & Arpels’ Debut Fragrance Back

When a fragrance from the 1970s returns to stores, it is tempting to read it as a major international comeback. In the case of First by Van Cleef & Arpels, the confirmed fact is more precise: on 23 October 2026, the house brought it back to the Japanese market.

First is Van Cleef & Arpels’ debut fragrance, created by Jean-Claude Ellena in 1976. It holds a special place in the brand’s history: the jewellery house began its conversation with perfumery through a distinctive floral composition.

The Japanese relaunch includes two concentrations in 100 ml bottles. First Eau de Parfum is priced at ¥44,990 including tax, while First Eau de Toilette costs ¥39,490 including tax. This is a useful detail for anyone seeking the current official release rather than a vintage bottle on the secondary market.

The two versions take different directions. Eau de Parfum opens with bergamot, mandarin and blackcurrant, then unfolds into jasmine, narcissus, Turkish rose and ylang-ylang; its base lists sandalwood, vanilla, musk, tonka bean and amber. Eau de Toilette brings more freshness and fruity brightness: hyacinth, peach, raspberry and aldehydes lead to tuberose, while oakmoss, honey and civet appear in the drydown.

First’s overall character remains recognisable in the brand’s official description: a generous floral bouquet, aldehydic radiance, citrus notes and a warm woody-amber foundation. The bottle, with a silhouette reminiscent of a pendant, continues the fragrance’s connection to Van Cleef & Arpels’ jewellery aesthetic.

It is important to stay with what has been confirmed: this is a relaunch in Japan. Those outside the country should wait for separate information from the brand or local authorised retailers.

For First, the return is compelling because it offers two interpretations of one historic name: the fuller Eau de Parfum and the more airy Eau de Toilette. It allows shoppers in this specific market to choose between two officially presented versions.